An assessment of 50 global brands has shown growing “addiction” to synthetic fibres and use of fossil fuel industry tactics in the fashion sector. Launched on the final day of London Fashion Week, a report published by US campaign group Changing Markets Foundation noted major brands were “doubling down” on fast fashion, warning that EU initiatives to reduce the sector’s impact on the planet were backfiring. Over 30 initiatives are due to come into force globally in the next few years, including a UN Plastic Pollution Treaty expected to be finalised later this year, as well as new EU product standards that could dramatically reshape the sector. “Despite mounting public and scientific concerns and a regulatory backlash, major brands are clinging on to synthetics and borrowing distraction and delay tactics from the fossil fuel industry,” the report noted. “The low quality and near-zero recycling rates make fast fashion a significant source of microplastic pollution and waste.” Around half (11 of 23) of the international clothing brands and retailers that responded to the survey said they had increased their use of fossil fuel-based fabrics – mainly polyester, while only three reported reduced use. Several also broke pledges to reduce synthetics made in the previous survey in 2022, and a growing number refused to respond. According to the European Environment Agency, textiles shed up to 500,000 tonnes of microplastics into the world’s oceans each year, while scientists are finding microplastics from polyester, nylon and other sources in a growing number of human organs – including the brain. With the fashion industry resisting change, lawmakers must strengthen regulations to curb synthetic use, the Changing Markets Foundation warned. “While regulators are beginning to act, they must remain vigilant,” said Senior Campaign Manager Urska Trunk. “We need strong, decisive action to steer fashion away from its dependency on fossil fuels and towards creating high-quality clothes that people want to keep for longer.”
